Dec 12, 2007

Paris, France

Luckily we have both been here on previous trips, so the urge to run out and see everything in Paris did not exist. We arrived to Charles de Galle Saturday morning and by dumb luck found an express train into the heart of Paris. The forecast called for 5 days of rain and cold weather. If there was anywhere throughout our Fall travels where a forecast did not matter this was it. Paris thrives at all times.

Our first stop was a logical one - the nearest boulangerie. Croissants, breads, quiche, tarts and pastries were everywhere we looked. Excellent food was never an issue here.

Saturday, K made it a point to "visit" some of the same boutiques from a trip in October of 2006. Amazingly, she navigated us to several districts as a native Parisian; scary, but not at all surprising. The highlight of this excursion was finding a shop which opened about a year ago. We walked in and were greeted with a "Bon Jour" by Nikki (a Tina Turner look alike). Nikki's English was about as strong as our French - both non existent. Somehow Nikki and K were able to transcend the language barrier and rifle through the clothing racks, finding common ground. As K tried several outfits on, Nikki tried convincing us of the men's department downstairs. No chance. However, her service and efforts managed to decrease some of her inventory and we managed to snap a photo on the way out of the store.

Walking around Paris, even in the rain, was really fun. This time of year the Christmas decorations/lights were in full force and the city is strikingly beautiful at night. We happened upon a Christmas market near St. Suplice Church, which provided good shelter to avoid the rain.

Sunday morning the rain broke for a few hours and we got a little sunshine! We stopped at a famous cafe for a "Parisian breakfast" (coffee, oj, croissant, bread) and set about for more exploring. Our walk took us past some famous sights -the Louvre, Notre Dame and the Pantheon to name a few. As we kept heading south, we came across a great "locals" neighborhood featuring produce, meats and flowers at every turn. At the end of this stretch was a large square featuring about 50 people dancing, surrounded by an audience of neighborhood folk and a few tourists. Excellent people watching.

Sunday night we were spoiled by a great restaurant (Drount) near our hotel. Our reservations were at 7, and we quickly learned no one in Paris eats at 7 (we were the only ones there). They actually had to unlock the front door to let us in !!!! The hostess suggested that we have a drink at the bar; as we enjoyed our aperitif people started filing in making us feel more comfortable. The cuisine was outstanding and the service was even better. Our mood changed drastically from when we entered considering ourselves "early birds" at a Midwest pancake joint. We left this place feeling we'd just discovered a true gem of Paris. We would highly recommend dinner at Drount but don't make reservations till at least 8pm. Local hint: the French are always fashionably late:)

Monday morning we picked up the paper and learned we had company in Paris - Qaddaffi. His first visit in 30 years. Great timing by us. His Paris wish list included some local sights, a trip to Versailles and some "deals" with the French government. After missing him at Versailles Tuesday, he was spotted later in the afternoon on the Champs Elysees, with a heavily armed motorcade - very eerie!

Our last night in Paris may have been our favorite. A colleague of K's invited us to her flat for wine and cheese - definitely a great way to see the city as a "local". The metro did us right (very, very easy) and got us to their neighborhood in no time. After a fun evening with our Parisian friends, we strolled back through the 7th Arr, catching a great view of the Eiffel Tower. Continuing north we had a chance to walk along the Seine, taking in many of the buildings lit up throughout Paris.

Wednesday our plans had us flying back to Zurich. We had a chance to experience a true part of France - a train strike. 80% of the Metro employees opted to sit Wednesday out, so we got a taste of life dealing with the strike and one of Paris' low points - traffic. Our driver did a great job getting us out to Charles de Gaulle in gridlock rush hour standstill. Hopefully he picked up a fare coming back from the airport as it looked twice as bad.

We allotted more time then usual to get to the airport because of the strike which turned out to be a mistake. Terminal 2 at Charles de Galle is a horrible place to kill a couple hours. Signage is less then stellar, passport control sits before you check in, and the restaurants and shops were right out of a strip mall back home. European airports all seem to thrive with new shopping stores and gourmet restaurants. Not at Charles de Galle terminal 2. If you are ever stuck in at CDG may you have the luxury of discovering another terminal.

For the rest of the trip in photos - click here.

No comments: